4×4 Road: Johnson Canyon Road – Death Valley National Park
High clearance-required 4×4 road up an alluvial fan to Johnson Canyon and Wilson Spring.
Total Distance: 9.8 miles point to point (dead end) | Elevation Gain: 4,128ft. up, 46ft. down (-250ft. to 3,837ft.) |
Road Difficulty: 1.8+ for the first 6.5 miles; 2.3+ beyond | Bicycle Difficulty: More Difficult |
View Rating: 4.0 out of 5.0 stars | Author’s Rating: 3.0 out of 5.0 stars |
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Pets: Leashed | Horses: Yes |
Best Seasons: October-May | Special Permits: None |
Water Availability: No potable water | Overnight Options: Yes at least 1 mile from the West Side Road |
Amenities: None | Crowd Factor: Solitude to Moderate |
Uses: | Road surface: |
Features: | Hazards: |
Mile-by-Mile: Johnson Canyon Road
0.0 Johnson Canyon Road Junction on the West Side Road (-250ft.). Begin driving up the alluvial fan. Per the National Park Service, high clearance, 2WD vehicles can usually make it to the top of the alluvial fan, about 6.5 miles from the West Side Road. However, the road is rocky and rough; take your time and be prepared to turn around if it’s too much for your vehicle. As you ascend the road, be sure to look back down at Badwater Flats and the Black Mountains across the valley. (36.098192°, -116.845458°)
6.5 Drop into Johnson Canyon Wash (2,304ft.). The road goes south to continue up Johnson Canyon. 4×4 is required beyond this point. There is more foliage in the canyon than on the alluvial fan, but it’s still pretty barren. Keep your eyes open for a rusting 1934 Chrysler Airflow. The further you go upcanyon, the rougher the terrain becomes, including some boulders that must be negotiated – possibly creating a difficulty of 2.3. (36.085068, -116.956533)
9.8 Cottonwood Trees (3,837ft.). This marks the end of the road (actually, the road continues a short distance further, but it may be closed – it’s still best to continue on foot). A campsite nearby (across the stream) is nice if you don’t mind dragging your gear across a few muddy places. Wilson Spring is nearby – be sure not to camp within 100 feet of the spring – and the trail to Hungry Bill’s Ranch continues beyond the spring. (36.088866, -117.006300)
History & More
The first 6.5 miles of the road are usually ok for high clearance vehicles. That said, the rocks that make up the road surface make it a very rough, even bone-jarring, ride. Be sure to have a spare tire with you.
Several boulders in the wash can’t be avoided, making the track a bit of a 2.3 difficulty. However, the lack of steep grades, off-camber sections, and ledges makes it easier than it might be otherwise.
Johnson Canyon Road is less popular with campers simply because it’s further from a paved road. Be sure to drive at least a mile up the road before pulling over for the night.
Johnson Canyon was the site of a Shoshone village. The locals still used the spring in the early days of settlement and prospecting in Death Valley.
William Johnson established a ranch in the canyon that bears his name in the 1870s. By building irrigation channels and terraces, he was able to successfully raise squash, melons, corn, beans, and even fruit and nut orchards. It wasn’t just a homestead – William carried his produce five miles over the Panamint Mountains to the swelling mining town of Panamint City. As the town began to dwindle, William abandoned the ranch.
History melded when, in 1907, a Shoshone man by the name of Hungry Bill and his family moved into the canyon and was approved for a homestead on the land. The family planted more trees and gardens and lived on the site of their ancestral village until Hungry Bill’s death c.1919.
There was some discussion after the filing of the homestead whether or not an American Indian man could, indeed, file a claim. The state of California upheld his rights to the land.
Hungry Bill was famous for his ravenous appetite. We don’t know if any of his family inherited that trait, but it’s possible that hunger drove the family to build ever-increasing numbers of gardens.
The gardens of Hungry Bill’s Ranch included alfalfa, grapevines, peaches, beans, wheat, and corn.
The exact history of Hungry Bill’s family is nebulous. It’s known that he had a wife, two sons, and two daughters. However, records conflict as to exactly when each was born – and in what order – and when each died. Even more confusing are his grandchildren: Exactly how many and by whom is still a matter of debate. T.R. Goodwin, the first official superintendent of Death Valley, attempted to untangle the family tree in 1937 and partially succeeded. He was able to establish that Hungry Bill was a leader in the tribe.
Hungry Bill was a scout for the US Army in the Madoc War.
I haven’t read how Wilson Spring received its name, but it’s possible the name came from Hungry Bill’s son-in-law, Tom Wilson.
Johnson Canyon was also rich in mineral resources. Gold and silver were extracted by prospectors and natives (each with their own claims). It’s said that some miners tried to jump a claim owned by several Shoshone men. The men went to a nearby city, rounded up some (possibly drunken) miners, and ran the jumpers off of their land.
After Hungry Bill’s death, his land was deeded to his children. However, they left the canyon, and it’s possible that it reverted to the US government. In 1953, Fred and Leah Rosser purchased the homestead. Upon learning of the transaction, the National Park Service offered the Rossers a land grant outside of the borders of the park in exchange for Johnson Canyon. The couple agreed, and the canyon became National Monument property in 1954.
At one time, the road up Johnson Canyon ascended all of the way to Panamint Pass and then down Surprise Canyon to emerge not far from the ghost town of Ballarat. In 2001, Death Valley National Park and nearby local agencies closed the road beyond Wilson Spring. A few people each year still walk the old route.
Download Route Map
Driving Directions
On the West Side Road, 20.7 miles south of the northern terminus and 15.2 miles north of the southern terminus.
It is extremely dangerous to enter a mine due to unstable shafts, gasses, and more. Do not enter mines, even if they are apparently open!
Walking on, climbing, entering, ascending, descending, or traversing any mine, structure, feature, or ruin is prohibited.
Toxic chemicals or ore may be present around mine sites. Enter at your own risk.
Possessing, destroying, injuring, defacing, removing, digging, or disturbing any mine, structure, feature, or ruin is also prohibited.
Always be wary of flash floods in a canyon.
Camping in a canyon is discouraged due to the danger of flash floods.
Remember, it may be easier to climb up dryfalls than down them (or vice versa). Be sure you can climb in the other direction before climbing up or down a dryfall.
Camping is not allowed within one mile of a paved road, developed area, or dirt road that is closed to camping.
Camping is not permitted within 100 feet of a flowing stream, spring, or other natural body of open water.
No camping is permitted on the floor of Death Valley, within one mile of Darwin Falls and Greenwater Canyon, on the active/shifting sand dunes, and certain other canyons and backcountry areas.
Camping is also prohibited within one mile of the Ubehebe Lead Mine, Leadfield Mines, Keane Wonder Mill, and Skidoo Mill.
Camping is limited to 30 days per calendar year within the park.
Fires are permitted in NPS-provided fire grates or grills ONLY.
Leave No Trace Principles are enforced
Drones and model aircrafts are prohibited
Camping is permitted only in designated sites or in areas open to dispersed backcountry camping
All park rules and regulations
12 Month Pass: $55/Death Valley Annual Pass (valid at Death Valley National Park). $80/America the Beautiful Annual Pass (valid at all national park and federal fee areas). $20/Annual Senior Pass (62 years or older US citizens; valid at all national park and federal fee areas). Free/4th Grade Pass (Valid Sept. 1-August 31 of the child’s 4th Grade school year). Free/Military Pass (valid for all active military personel and their dependents with a CAC Card or DD Form 1173).
Lifetime Pass: $80/Lifetime Senior Pass (62 years or older US citizens; valid at all national park and federal fee areas). Free/Access Pass (available to all US citizens with perminent disabilities). Free/Access for Veterans and Gold Star Families Pass (valid for all military and veterans with a CAC card, Veteran HJealth Identification Card, Veteran ID Card, or veteran’s designation on state-issued drivers license or identification card.)