Walking Wild & Free

Hungry Bill’s Ranch to Panamint City 1

Hungry Bill’s Ranch to Panamint City

Photo credit Joe Decruyenaere, CC BY-SA 2.0. View at https://flic.kr/p/9u29MB

Hungry Bill’s Ranch to Panamint City 2

Photo credit Joe Decruyenaere, CC BY-SA 2.0. View at https://flic.kr/p/9u5aBj

Hike up an old route to an 8,000ft. pass and then down to a historic ghost town. Note that the route is not maintained and may be difficult to travel or be invisible.

Total Distance: 13.2 miles out & back	Elevation Gain: 6,596ft. (3,837ft. to 8,076ft.)
Difficulty: Very Extremely Strenuous	10+ Mile Difficulty: Very Extremely Strenuous
View Rating: 5.0 out of 5.0 stars5.0	Author’s Rating: 3.0 out of 5.0 stars3.0
Visitor Rating: (Click to rate) [Total: 0 Average: 0]	Visitor Difficulty Rating: (Click to rate) [Total: 0 Average: 0]
Pets: No	Horses: No
Best Seasons: March-June, September-November	Special Permits: None
Water Availability: No potable water	Overnight Options: Dispersed camping permitted at least 100 feet from any water source
Trailhead Amenities: None	Crowd Factor: Solitude
Trailhead Access: 2.3
Uses:	Trail Surface:
Features:	Hazards:

Mile-by-Mile: Hungry Bill’s Ranch to Panamint City

0.0 Cottonwood Trees near the end of the Johnson Canyon Road (3,837ft.). Park in the turn around area and then follow the remains of the road up along the runoff from Wilson Spring up to the end of the old road, then hike up the trail/route to Hungry Bill’s Ranch. (36.088866, -117.006300)

1.75 Hungry Bill’s Ranch (4,737ft.). From here, you want to continue upcanyon. As the ranch sprawls, there may be social trails to follow for a while, especially until you can drop into the canyon above most of the greenery created by the springs. This guide turns slightly left to walk along the south side of a rambling stone wall and then picks up a social trail to continue upcanyon on the south side of the canyon before crossing to the north side of the canyon and finally dropping into the wash above the greenery about mile 2.2. A quarter mile later (36.098077, -117.038432), be sure to take the left (southerly) fork to continue upcanyon. Note that because of the tangled mess of foliage in the upper canyon, this entire route is very difficult. (36.092049, -117.029525)

2.8 Greenery from a spring (5,441ft.). The spring extends up the canyon to the right; you want to take the left fork to ascend up toward Panamint Pass. (36.100064, -117.042495)

3.7 Wash split (6,201ft.). There have been several wash splits before this, but this one has the washes spreading out on either side of a red hill. Take the left (southerly) wash to ascend toward Panamint Pass. The pass, itself, is out of sight at the moment, but it’s to the right of Sentinel Peak, which is visible to the southwest. The route is rugged and becomes steeper as you get closer to the pass. (36.101670, -117.055450)

4.7 Panamint Pass (8,076ft.). Snow may cling here into the spring months due to the elevation. Continue across the pass and down into Frenchmans Canyon. If in doubt of where to go, simply continue downcanyon. You may see evidence of mines along the way – the area was heavily prospected in the boom days of Panamint City. (36.107109, -117.070165)

6.3 Surprise Canyon (6,483ft.). Thompson Camp is just upstream (right) from here, but this guide turns left down the wash toward Panamint City (if you want easier walking, cross the wash and scramble up to the old road). (36.119868, -117.089721)

6.6 Upper extremities of Panamint City (6,292ft.). The ghost town sprawls, so there is plenty of exploring that can be done. Remember that the buildings are private property, so explore with respect. Be careful to take the correct branches of the wash on the way back up Frenchmans Canyon on your way back to Johnson Canyon (probably the most confusing is at 36.118776, -117.085108; take the right (southerly) fork). (36.117792, -117.095193)

History & More

At one time, the road up Johnson Canyon ascended all of the way to Panamint Pass and then down Surprise Canyon to emerge not far from the ghost town of Ballarat. In 2001, Death Valley National Park and nearby local agencies closed the road beyond Wilson Spring. That said, there is little to no evidence of vehicle usage in the upper canyon.

The peak to the left of Panamint Pass is called Sentinel Peak. It’s visible from much of the route.

Don’t underestimate the difficulty of this hike. Besides being over 13 miles RT, the elevation gain is killer. And if all that wasn’t enough, the upper part of the canyon is choked with brush, which is miserable to try and push through. Give yourself extra time and energy for this hike!

William Johnson established a ranch in the canyon that bears his name in the 1870s. By building irrigation channels and terraces, he was able to successfully raise squash, melons, corn, beans, and even fruit and nut orchards. It wasn’t just a homestead – William carried his produce five miles over the Panamint Mountains to the swelling mining town of Panamint City. As the town began to dwindle, William abandoned the ranch. However, the route that he used is the basis for this trail.

Johnson Canyon was also rich in mineral resources. Both gold and silver were extracted by prospectors and natives (each with their own claims). It’s said that some miners tried to jump a claim owned by several Shoshone men. The men went to a nearby city, rounded up some (possibly drunken) miners, and ran the jumpers off of their land.

Panamint City was established in 1872 in the wake of a silver and copper boom. Within two years, the city had 2,000 residents. In 1876, a flash flood washed away most of the town; however, a post office existed from 1882-83 and 1887-95.

A few people continued to live in Panamint City until 1983, when another flash flood tore out the road to the town, making living there an unappealing option. Private property still exists, however, and the owners are still allowed to drive up to their property, even after the Bureau of Land Management permanently closed what was left of the road in 2001.

Much of Surprise Canyon is part of Death Valley National Park; however, the road and buildings are still private property.

Before the initial silver strike in Surprise Canyon, several men had claims in the canyon. They were followed home one day by six stagecoach robbers and forced into a partnership. Eventually, two Nevada senators backed the development of the mines in the area.

Panamint City had a reputation for being lawless and ruthless. Wells Fargo refused to build an office there for fear that any money or packages would be stolen before they could be delivered.

With no way to safely transport their rich finds and with lawlessness running high, the Nevada senators finally cast their silver bullion into 450lb. cannonballs. These were hauled to Los Angeles in a wagon that didn’t carry even one guard for protection.

Download Route Map

Driving Directions

End of the Johnson Canyon Road, 9.8 miles from the West Side Road.